"There's Mr. Lewis"

July 4 - After a fairly easy 12 hour flight we find ourselves in Tai Pei on a five hour layover.  This is an exceptional airport with many of the waiting areas decorated with a theme (i.e. Hello Kitty Waiting Area, a salute to the post office, green area,  relaxation, well you get the hint). Walking around, suddenly I heard a student call out , “There's Mr. Lewis”, low and behold one of our Marshall/Creekside families passing through Tai Pei on their way to Vietnam. It's one thing to see CV families in Vegas, but we are on the other side of the world and in the Southern Hemisphere.  It is kinda nice to have established a minor bit of small town celebrity.  International travel really shows we are intricately connected and our degrees of separation are minimal.  

En route to the airport, red eye to Bali!  One of us not quite awake.  

Tai Pei Airport, the Relaxation Station!  

Tai Pei realness.

Somebody's about to get cut! 

Hello Kitty everywhere!

So, I'm guessing we are going to be terrible Patriots and not really celebrate the 4th of July this year.  No flip flop wearing husky Americans with red, white and blue NASCAR T-shirts in the Tai Pei airport proclaiming "God bless 'Merica".   I guess red necks of that ilk are currently a little pissed at America (Thanks Obama) and are currently hunkered down in their bunkers polishing their shot guns for the upcoming revolution. I’s been a tough few weeks for our more conservative friends in America. 

Only one small travel snafu to date, Di Drew from Australia was supposed to be flying in this AM arriving before us but Jetstar cancelled flights due to a little volcanic eruption somewhere in Sumatra.  So, she will be joining us on Monday instead.   Why we weren't cancelled I feel is a question best left unanswered, regardless Jetstar has resumed flights so I'm guessing all is just fine!

Ubud - The Berkeley of Bali

July 5

Our first full day in Ubud!  After an exceptionally good night's sleep, we got up early to walk around and get the lay of the land.  What a plethora of sights, sounds, and smells.  Ubud is an amazing place, filled with shops, restaurants, and tourists looking for Yoga, spiritual enlightenment and affordable massages.  There are lots of hippies in this place from all over the world!   

The mad rush toward to one of the few traffic lights. 

The most amazing thing to me are the scooters zipping around here.  We have seen people carrying massive amounts of groceries, boxes, and bags on the scooter.  We also saw a family of four zipping through traffic, the toddler and baby squished between a young couple poking their heads out to grab some air every few seconds.  

A family of four, with flip flops on a single scooter...not the most amazing thing we have seen  on a scooter.  

We have also seen all manner of things balancing on the heads of elderly Balinese women.  We actually saw four women walking to a big dirt pile, over filling their tin pans with dirt and helping each other place the pans on their heads.  The women then carried the dirt into a home no doubt for a construction project. The pile was massive and I'm sure this was going to take most of the day.  

women in Ubud carrying dirt from a big pile to some construction through a narrow doorway. 

When traveling abroad I am always struck by the difference in attitudes towards safety. Speeding through Ubud traffic in a cab, people on scooters are weaving quickly and the cab driver is getting very close. Sidewalks are situated next to rain gutters with a three foot drop.  Walking by the Sacred Monkey Forest, the Macaques are boldly sitting in the road.  I just imagine an American family approaching, getting bit, and then threatening to sue the park for allowing monkeys to roam free.  Stairs here are treacherous to say the least with little to none in the way of railings to keep one from toppling over the edge.  

I like a place that takes a bit of a Darwinian approach.  America can stand a few of her herd culled due to dumb-assery, and a few other countries as well I'm sure. 

Ubud seems to be forcing a healthy lifestyle on us.  The hills are gently but provide a healthy workout when walking around, the food is inexpensive and in a healthy sized portion, unlike the mega meals served in our beloved SF Bay Area.  There are plenty of fruits and veggies, and all manner of juices.  The humidity and constant consumption of filtered water I'm sure is helping me to sweat out years of toxins.  My skin is already attaining a healthy glow from being kissed by the sun and the constantly perspiring. The pace and lifestyle are forcing us to be stress free.  No television or constant music blaring, restaurants expect diners to enjoy leisurely meals, and although service is excellent it is by no means hurried! Often times in the Bay Area, our restaurant owners need high turnover to stay afloat.  One always senses that upon getting our large portions of food, we as customers feel we must hurriedly eat and depart so the next customer can take our barely cooled seats.  Many servers often lay down the bill and say, "Take your time, no rush," when nothing in the server’s manner suggests there is no rush.  

I have yet to hear a server in Ubud say, "Take your time, no rush" and yet everything in their manner suggests you will be taking your time as I won't let you rush.  Food does not come out quickly, and getting a bill is not always an easy task.  Leisurely eating and talking seems to be the order of the day during dinner times.  

Enough of my tirades...we did stop by the Ubud Market and what a feast of sights and sounds, but most importantly smells...salt cured herrings, exotic spices, coconut everything, street food, etc.  One sees brochures and can imagine the sounds and sights but the smells are so foreign, it hits the senses like a freight train.  

A crowded market of T-shirts and souvenirs. 

More market madness. 

The day ended with us getting caught in a rainstorm on our way back from dinner.  The scooter drivers wisely ducked under shelters but we chose to run in the rain to our humble abode.  What a refreshing way to end our day!

All this on day 1, what adventures await for the rest of our stay?

A relaxing Bali lunch. 

Beautiful setting, and delicious drinks, including Bing Tang Beer.  

Rusty ready to see the sights. 

Home sweet home...the refreshing pool. 

Yosiell is beating the heat and humidity in the pool.   

Coffee from the Ass of a Civet

July 6th

Alit, our driver, and I took a long drive to pick up Di in Kuta.  90 minutes there and 90 minutes back, all in Bali traffic.  One of the drivers Rusty met said only in Bali does the traffic work so well, as everyone drives without an ego.  I think this must be true.  Despite the chaotic nature of the traffic, not many people are angry or upset.  Everyone takes their time and gives way as if a signal were given that only the Balinese people know about.  We imagined an American or an Aussie trying to navigate this and are sure major bouts of road rage would be the order of the day.  

On the way back we stopped in a village to try Lowak Coffee.  The Arabica coffee beans for Lowak coffee are sought out by the lowak, or in English, the civet.  The lowak eats only the finest, most ripe beans and digests only the fruit part before passing the beans.  As the beans are passed, they go through a fermentation and the caffeine content is greatly reduced.  The feces are collected, the beans are extracted, washed, dried out, roasted, ground and served.  The coffee was extremely smooth with very little bitterness.  Surprisingly considering where the beans have been.  

Di Drew enjoying Lowak Coffee!

A Flying Fox just hanging out impressing the tourists.  

The place we tried the coffee is definitely a tourist coffee farm, with a little demonstration shed, but the views of small children flying kites in the rice paddies next door certainly lent an air of authenticity.  The small farm has a few civets on display and for some reason, a bat and an iguana.  The tasting included many different mixed coffees and teas including Ginseng Coffee, Ginger Coffee, Lemon Grass Tea, Coconut Coffee, and about ten other exotic mixes.  We bought a few of the overly sweet exotic flavors to bring back to Rusty and Yosiell.  

A civet waiting patiently for his caffeine fix...

Upon returning back to Rumah Buda, our home away from home, we decided to take a quick stroll through the Sacred Monkey Forest.  These were aggressive little mammals to be sure.  These Macaques have no shame and will jump on unsuspecting tourists holding bananas, Rusty found this out pretty quickly.  On another pass by the forest a few monkeys mugged us by running up and grabbing items to of our grocery bags.  What little thugs!  

Awesome guard to the Sacred Monkey Forest.

A Macaque plotting and scheming.  

A little afternoon grooming. 

This little thief can find a mint in a pocket full of lint before you can blink an eye!

A Macaque family gathering for their early evening begging.  

Exactly who is on display here?!  Us or them?

Rusty before being viciously assaulted by a monkey.

So far, every single Balinese local we have met has been extremely helpful and friendly, with an honesty and openness that is very attractive.  A smile and a quick "Hello" go a long way in securing a genuine greeting and a willingness to assist a group of loud opinionated Americans/ Australian.  

Packed Like Sardines on the Beach

July 9 

Hooray, Sydney-Sider Phil has joined us.   Phil is an infinite delight and has been to Bali several times and can suggest a few restaurants and shops for us.

My trusted traveling companions.  

A few cocktails and appetizers, watching the Ubud-ians pass by!  

Our driver has suggested that we hit the temple on the cliffs in the early afternoon before enjoying a sunset dinner on the beach (Uluwatu) The temple on the cliffs was lovely.  Beautiful views of the cliffs and the ocean.  The ocean is very blue but seems to be surrounded constantly by a haziness.  

Rusty and Yosiell enjoying the view in the temple on the cliffs.

Stairway to the temple...

Walking the grounds, sarongs are mandatory but each temple lends sarongs after paying the entrance fee.  

Beautiful view...

A cliff, with no railing...no safety mechanisms...and yet we didn't plummet to our deaths.  

Phil taking in the sights!

After, we went through a few beach towns clogged with surfers from around the globe to stop at a restaurant that was one of a string of beach front restaurants crowded together (Jimbaran)  The beach was very crowded with people trying to take in the sunset.  The sunset of course was lovely, everything you would expect in Bali.  The dinner was perhaps the freshest seafood any of us have had in a great while.  Excellent grilling.

Bali sunset...

Lots of tourists taking in the sunset.

Food is ordered fresh from the tank inside...the best calamari I've ever had.  

Frenemies to the end.  

Can you get any more Aussie than this?  

Sunset fast approaching. 

And the crowd gathers...

Unfortunately, it seems every place we end up is wrought with bus-loads of tourists.  I'm hoping we can stop driving several hours to places so crowded that the experience becomes a trial in patience.  Bali has a natural beauty we are missing when in the car and when driving through congested towns.  I’m sure more specific suggestions to our drivers will assist with this issue. 

Looooonnnggggg Day of Touring

July 7, Touring Day

Putut Alit, our esteemed driver, took us on a tour today.  We hopped in the car to several different places starting with traditional Balinese dancing in Singapadu.  The traditional Hindu story told during the dance including so many elements that this quickly turned from a drama into a melodrama.   One of the central figures is the Barong, a mythical lion like creature.   It's a story involving lions, witches, princes, servants, battles, and a host of other worldly elements.  What an enjoyable way to start the tour. 

The Barong, a mythical lion like creature.  

Servant girls.

Bali dancers have exceptionally expressive eyes (very wide open and  often looking to the side). 

Make up the envy of drag queens everywhere. 

A Balinese version of a witch.

Next a traditional Indonesian Batik factory.  The workers were weaving Balinese Itak cloth, and others were demonstrating the wax process of Batiking.  Very labor intensive but what beautiful products in the end.  

Another hop in the car to go to the temple Goa Gajah, or Elephant Cave temple.  This beautiful temple dates from the 11th Century.  The cave has alcoves about waste high used for meditation.  The featured statue is Ganesh but this is not why the cave is considered the elephant cave.  It really is because the cave is very large by typical temple standards and the front of the carving once represented an elephant. Much of the temple was destroyed in 1917 and only portions are being restored.  The temple grounds were home to a Buddhist temple as well.  

Intrepid travelers heading into Goa Gajah.  

Ganesha, over 1,000 years old.  The God of Education and Learning.  

Ganesha photobombing Rusty and Di's selfie.  

Other stone carvings in the cave. 

Rusty in front of Ganesha.

Interesting tree roots.  

Remains of the Buddhist temple at the same site. 

Restoration of the temple structures...using lots of gold leaf. 

Temple gates. 

It seems that most Indonesians don't practice Hinduism or Buddhism, rather they practice Hinduism and Buddhism.  I'm coming to find that this country is about balance.  The Balinese place offerings in front of homes and businesses on the ground not as an offering to the good Gods but rather to appease the evil Gods. Offerings placed in the small home temples are to receive favor from the Good Gods.  Again balance is the key!  (the Balinese are constantly presenting offerings…often several times a day in homes, in front of businesses, at temples, in the natural areas, in the rice fields).  All to receive the blessings of Gods. 

From there, we took a long, slow, and steady trip to the twin volcanoes. (Kintamani).   The views were absolutely stunning.  We ate lunch on a veranda overlooking the entire valley.  Not a bad way to spend a lunchtime.  

Lunchtime on the deck of a cliffside restaurant overlooking paradise.  

BinTang?  Why of course...the benefit to hiring a driver. 

Another cliffside hotel up the road a bit.  

Time for good food, good company, and a quiet moment to contemplate the view.  

Truly awesome.

One of the three dormant volcanoes.  

Good times, people, good times. 

We also stopped by the Holy Water temple.  (Pura Tirtha Empul) This is a place for Hindus to bath in the holy water.  How unfortunate that this temple was over run with just about every tourist in Bali.  

Truly frightening stone carving.

Mostly Hindus bathing in the holy waters.  

Walking out the exit of the temple, one is ferried through a veritable maze of souvenir stands.   We navigated the stands fairly quickly and easily before being accosted by banana sellers in the parking lot.  The pack of sellers sensed the weak link and separated Rusty from the herd.  He ended up buying organic bananas for a price worthy of Whole Foods.  So far the only unpleasant tourist experience we have had in Bali!  

From there, we took a quick trip to some distinctive rice paddy steppes (Tegallalang) and then home. 

Very steep rice terraces in a very narrow valley.

This was a very long day but some nice sites to see.  We come to our villa every night worn out but filled with a bevy of new memories.  

Home sweet home!